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Le Mont-Blanc (4.810 m.)

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Esprit Montagne - Guides de haute montagne


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E-mail: info@espritmontagne.com

Ascension du Mont-Blanc (4.810 m.)


The highest peak of Europe over Italy and France represents the acme of a mountain range not too large (only 18 km its development) but extremely severe and sprinkled with many peaks over 4000 m. The peak is represented by a large ice sheet on the French side that goes down to lower altitudes; the Italian side, also characterized by vast glacial surfaces, is however much more severe and impressive. Ambitious arrival point of mountaineers from all over the world, is an interesting place and great satisfaction.

The ascension starts either from the Refuge des Cosmiques or Refuge du Gouter.

This ascent requires good physical preparation because it takes about 6-8 hours of climbing at high altitude; moreover it is necessary to have some experience in the use of ice axe and crampons.
If you do not have previous experience on climbing at altitude, it is recommended to agree with "Esprit Montagne" a training and acclimatization program with the ascent of different summits in preparation for this big climb (Gran Paradiso, Breithorn, Capanna Margherita can be some options).

Program:
The program is approximate and, in case of bad weather, there might be variations to be agreed between the guide and the participants.

  • 1st day: meeting at 2 p.m. at the parking of the Aiguille du Midi cable car (Chamonix), we check the material and we take the cable car to the Aiguille du Midi (3842 m); after wearing crampons, a short and spectacular descent will lead us to the Refuge Gouter or Cosmiques (around 3600 meters), where we will have dinner enjoying the sunset - The day after we will climb the peak!
  • 2nd day: wake up and breakfast at around 1 a.m. (sic!); we start roping in the light of the headlamps; with a slow but regular step we keep going to the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul along a steep glacier. After two-three hours climb we will get to this first summit at an altitude of about 4150 mt to then head to the Mont Maudit that we will reach at  the height of 4.350 mt. Here you will find the most difficult part of the ascent: a slope of about fifty meters, steeper than the rest of the climb, it will require an extra effort, awarded, however, by the red dawn and the grand spectacle unfolding in front of us. Reaching this point takes about two hours from the shoulder of Tacul. After that, climbing the Mur de la Cote we will reach the Col de la Brenva (4300m), the last technical obstacle of this ascension. From here on, in two or three hours we will reach the easy summit cap at 4807 mt; a ritual stop for photos and drinks and then we set off for the return. The descent will be done through the same itinerary and will take about five hours until the cable car at  the Aiguille du Midi - in the case of poor condition on the glaciers, on the way or concerning the weather, the mountain guide will choose an alternative way at its own discretion.

Level
Long route purely glacial that requires good training and good ability to concentrate. Some short sections are steep (55 °), sometimes icy, and require a good mastery in the use of ice ax and crampons. Finally, a good adaptability to high altitude is also necessary.

Material
Ice crampons - ice ax - two pairs of socks - tights - mountain pants - two t-shirts - turtleneck - sweatshirt - vest (recommended) - complete Goretex jacket + pants - hat - band - peaked cap - two pairs of warm gloves - quality boots with adaptability to crampons - sunglasses for high altitude - sun cream for face and lips - camera - head torch.

Groups
One mountain guide can lead one person for this climb.

Prices available on demand

The price includes:
  • the assistance of the mountain guide;
  • use of group equipment (ropes,bolts and carabiners).

The price does not include:
  • half-board at the hut for clients and mountain guide (around €70 per person);
  • cable-car tickets for clients and the guide from Chamonix to Aiguille du Midi: round trip tickets (around €58,5 per person);
  • cost of transportatio to and from the locations for the participants and the mountain guide (possibility of collective transport by car);
  • anything that is not mentioned in "the price includes".