Great climbing in the Alps
discover Aosta Valley and the climb of Gran Paradiso and Monte Rosa!

Trip

Some of the most beautiful Mountaineering in the Alps: the climb of Gran Paradiso and Monte Rosa, discovering the Aosta Valley

This program will allow you in one week to learn the basic techniques of mountaineering, of glacier walking and of new safety systems, while being in a beautiful alpine environment, with huts known for their Italian quality.
We will start with the ascent of Gran Paradiso (4061 mt) to finish with the ascent of the Punta Gnifetti (4554 mt), in the Monte Rosa massif, where we will stay two days.
Gran Paradiso, a summit at 4000 meters accessible to novice mountaineers who are in good physical condition, is located at the heart of the Gran Paradiso National Park, it is a jewel of the Aosta Valley. It will be your first 4000 which will allow you to well acclimatize for the next ascent.
The Punta Gnifetti is one of the main peaks of the Monte Rosa Massif and it is surely the highest peak in the Alps easily accessible for intermediate mountaineers.
The view from up there is exceptional on all the Alps, you have the impression of having the world at our feet, only the Punta Dufour overlooks us.
Once at the top, we will visit the famous Capanna Margherita - 4554 mt - the highest observatory hut in Europe and we will eat Europe highest pizza before heading back down to the Città di Mantova hut. 
The guide will adapt to the weather and mountain and group conditions to make the most of this week.

Program

Day 1
VAL DI RHEMES - VIA FERRATA - VALSAVARENCHE - HUT (2710 mt)

Meeting with the Mountain Guide at 9am in the Val de Rhêmes, in front of the Hotel Granta Parey, to start the day on a nice Via Ferrata. It will be an opportunity to get to know each other and to get into the mood, while having fun and building confidence with the technical moves.
After a good picnic, we will take the car to get to the Valsavarenche (40 minutes by car) and reach the trailhead of the Gran Paradiso refuge.

We will walk about 2/3 hours to reach the hut. During the walk we will have the chance to appreciate the landscapes, the fauna and the flora of the Gran Paradiso National Park. Once we arrive at the hut and after settling in, we will check the equipment and organize the backpack for the next day.

Dinner and night at the refuge.

Day 2
HUT - GRAN PARADISO (4061 mt) - HUT

Departure at 4/5 am, ascent to Gran Paradiso and return (6 to 8 hours). The day starts with about 40 minutes of walking on a path to reach the first part of the glacier; the climb continues to reach the glacier shoulder in about 2/3 hours, leaving the last ramp to overtake the glacier terminal and reach then to the Madonnina, following easy steps along the rocky ridge. The descent will be done on the same side. Walking time: about 6/8 hours - return to the hut scheduled for 12.00/1.00 pm, depending on the training of the group. Afternoon and night at the hut to rest properly for the next day.

Day 3
VALSAVARENCHE - GRESSONEY - RIFUGIO CITTA DI MANTOVA (3498 mt)

After a good breakfast, we slowly walk down from the Chabod hut to the car parking area.

We drive to Gressoney with the guide to reach Staffal, the last inhabited hamlet in the valley, at the departure of the Gabiet cable car.

We will take the cable car up to Punta Indren in the early afternoon. We will then walk for 40 minutes to reach the Città di Mantova refuge.
This will be a rest day to recover energies, enjoy the view of the Monte Rosa glaciers and get used to the altitude to be in shape for the next day's climb.
We will have dinner and stay for the night in this beautiful refuge, we will be sleeping at 3400 meters of altitude which allows us to have a good sleep.

Day 4
CITTA DI MANTOVA HUT - SNIGNALKUPPE / CAPANNA MARGHERITA (4554 mt) - GRESSONEY - AOSTA 

The climb to Margherita Hut starts at the early lights of dawn. After a good breakfast, using front lamps and after being roped up, you will begin your climb along Lys glacier, which will take you to the saddle of the homonym Pass (4248 mt). You will reach the Capanna Margherita, climbing on the top of Punta Gnifetti (4554 mt.), around mid-morning. Once on top our eyes open on the magnificent summits of Punta Zumstein (4561 mt) and Punta Dufour (4633 mt - the highest summit of Mont Rose) and the vertiginous walls of Lyskamm. You will enjoy the satisfaction and the panorama from the hut’s terrace and resume your energies, warming yourself up with a cup of hot tea. The descent will be along the same climbing route. Consider about 5/6 hours of ascent and 3 of descent. You will arrive at Rifugio Mantova for lunch time - you can then take a break and stop for a pasta and finally walk down with the guide to Punta Indren again, to take the cable car back to Staffal. In the afternoon we will descend back down in the valley and return to Aosta.
 

Materiel

Mountaineering Technical Equipment

• mountaineering goretex shoes suitable to crampons (type Scarpa Triolet GTX, rental possible Sport Du Pilier, Gal Sport in Aosta or at Ravanel or Snell in Chamonix) 
• crampons and ice axe (rental possible at the Chabod hut for Gran Paradiso and  Ermanno Sport in Gressoney for the Monte Rosa )
• harness and helmet (given by the Mountain Guide)
• walking poles with snow washers

How to dress for climbing in the Alps

First layer on the skin:

• (merino wool) thermal/breathable long sleeve
• (merino wool) long thermal/breathable underwear
• woolen warm socks

Second layer:

• warm technical sweater
• waterproof & windproof hiking pants

Third layer:

• thin but warm duvet (to wear just in case of cold temperatures)

Last layer:

• waterproof & windproof Goretex jacket

Important Additionals:

• sleeping sheet for the hut
• warm winter hat
• buff/head-neckband
• warm winter gloves
• headlamp
• suncream (protection factor 50+)
• sunglasses
• camera

If you have any doubts or simply need clarification on what gear to take for your climb, you can take a look at our Blog page "What gear for mountaineering?"

N.B. Consider a change for when you are back to the hut (you can leave some stuff at the hut).

Level

Difficulty of the Mountaineering Tour

Programme thought for well-trained hikers, in search of new perspectives: From Gran Paradiso to Monte Rosa provides a great variety of terrain.
This programme is designed for those who want to discover the mountaineering world and to progressively improve your level throughout the week.
You will need to have a good level of fitness, good sense of balance and the ability to walk on rough terrain.
It is necessary to have a resistance to about 6 to 10 hours of walking a day and a good acclimatization to the high altitude as you will be staying at above 3500 mt. Be aware that the weight of your backpack and high altitude will reduce your usual strength.
It would be advisable for you to properly train and to climb a 3000 peak at least once before leaving for this Tour.
 

Useful infos

Meeting point on the first day:

Meeting with the Mountain Guide at 9am in the Val de Rhêmes, in front of the Hotel Granta Parey Click on the map below to see the departure point: you can park the car just aside the river.

If you are coming only for the climb, we can organize you a taxi to pick you up or the mountain guide can come to pick you up on the road nearby Aosta (organization upon booking).

End of the tour

End of the mountaineering week in Aosta (unless otherwise agreed with the guide on site) on D4 in the afternoon between 5:00 and 6:00 p.m. 

Organisation

The week before your departure, you will receive a reminder by email with all the information concerning the meeting and the guide in charge of your group.

Esprit Montagne takes care of the hut reservation, you do not need to think about it.

Guiding

French and English speaking local UIAGM mountain guide from our team.

Rental of specific equipment (crampons and ice axe):

• Ascent Grand Parardis: rental possible directly at the Chabod hut.
• Ascent Mont Rose: rental possible at Ermanno Sport in Staffal (Gressoney), directly at the departure of the gondola: please contact the shop in advance to book your equipment.

Unless otherwise preferred, we advise you to rent the technical equipment as explained above: it will be cheaper to rent the equipment for each use than to rent it directly for the 4 days. The guide will assist you with the rental on site but it is up to you to book the equipment.

Harness and helmet will be given by the Mountain Guide from the beginning of the mountaineering programme.

Insurance

Cancellation and repatriation insurance is mandatory, as is mountain search and rescue insurance (minimum cover of 10,000 Euros).

Esprit Montagne offers the following insurance: https://www.assurance-multi-sports.com.

Accommodation

For those who wish to sleep in the valley of Rhêmes Notre Dame the evening before meeting the mountain guide, we recommend the Hotel Granta Parey: you will be directly on site for the 1st day.

Food

• Half board treatment at the refuge
• Lunch and drinks are at your expense
• Before leaving, remember to bring some food to eat during the programme (cereal bars, dried fruit, chocolate, etc.)

Budget and currency

Italy is in the Eurozone, so the currency is the Euro (€).
The shelter has a credit card terminal, however, we strongly advise you to bring cash!
Be aware of the usual bank charges when purchasing goods or services with your credit card.
 

How to reach Aosta Valley

• Via Chamonix Mont Blanc – you can reach Chamonix by train from the main French airports or from Geneva airport – then you can reach Courmayeur – Aosta Valley through the Mont Blanc Tunnel (there are buses connections from Chamonix to Aosta Valley, but if you would like to be free to move it is advisable to rent a car). IMPORTANT: when you exit the Mont Blanc tunnel, do not take the highway in direction of Aosta, but do stay on the normal road (blue signs) that goes to Courmayeur, you will avoid a 20 min additional drive and 20 € of highway; VERY IMPORTANT: check the tunnel closure planning (https://www.tunnelmb.net/fr-FR/interruptions-et-pr-visions) in order to avoid bad surprises at last minute!!!!
• Via Geneva or Martigny – you can easily reach Martigny by train from Geneva airport - then you reach Aosta city center via the tunnel of Grand Saint Bernard (there are buses connections from Martigny to Aosta Valley, but if you would like to be free to move it is advisable to rent a car).
• Via Milan/Turin airport – rent a car directly to reach Aosta via the highway;
• Or via Bourg Saint Maurice (73700, France) - Col du Petit Saint Bernard - you can reach Bourg Saint Maurice by train from the main French airports. Once in Bourg Saint Maurice you will need to rent a car to reach the Aosta Valley via the Col du Petit Saint Bernard (2 hours drive). It's a slightly longer trip but you can save the toll at the Mont Blanc Tunnel.
• By train: https://www.trenitalia.com/en.html

Public transport in Aosta Valley

• Bus transport within the Aosta Region: https://aosta.arriva.it/en/timetables-and-routes/
• Bus transport from Chamonix to Courmayeur: https://aosta.arriva.it/courmayeur-chamonix/
• Bus transport from Courmayeur to Aosta: https://aosta.arriva.it/en/line/aosta-courmayeur-2/ (to directly take the bus to Valsavarenche, stop in the village of Villeuneuve)
• Val de Rhêmes Valley bus - departure from the village of Villeneuve and stop at "Rhêmes Notre Dame - Chanavey": https://arriva.it/app/uploads/sites/3/2022/09/Rhemes-Notre-Dame-Villeneuve-Settembre2022.pdf
• Bus transport from Milan to Aosta: https://aosta.arriva.it/en/aosta-milano/
   

Tips for hiring mountaineering boots:

When it comes to mountaineering boots, these are the types of boots you should have: Scarpa Triolet GTX

You can rent them at Le Pilier du sport in Morgex, Gal Sport in Aosta or Ravanel or Snell in Chamonix.

Car sharing

When you register online, you can choose whether or not you wish to take part in the car-sharing scheme to get to the starting point of your course. Once you have made your booking, you can log back into your Esprit Montagne account to access a section dedicated to carpooling. Here you will find the contacts of the other participants who are interested in car-sharing, so that you can contact them directly.