You have a high level of proficiency in mountain climbing, progression and rescue techniques. You're comfortable with aerial passages on ridges. You've already done a 4000m climb and it went very well.
Physical lev. : 5 / 5
Physical lev. : 5 / 5
You are experienced in the sporting activity of the trip purchased = a shopping list is requested.
Effort corresponding to 1700 - 2500 metres of vertical drop hiking per day.
You are a highly trained sportsman who is currently in good shape.
3 days and 2 nights
Participants : 1
June to September
All inclusive in Refuge
The Matterhorn, known as the Cervin in German, is a mountain on the border between Valle d'Aosta in Italy and Valais in Switzerland. It's a mythical peak with a demanding ascent that requires a high level of physical and mental fitness. We offer a 3-day ascent of this summit.
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How difficult is the Matterhorn?
The Matterhorn is one of the most iconic and challenging mountains in the Alps. Situated on the border between Switzerland and Italy, this pyramidal peak rises to 4,478 meters and is famous for its distinctive shape and sheer walls. Climbing the Matterhorn is renowned for its technical and physical difficulty, requiring excellent physical condition, extensive mountaineering experience and advanced rock and ice climbing skills.
The most common route to the summit is the Hörnli ridge on the Swiss side. This route, although technically less demanding than others, remains extremely difficult due to its exposure and unpredictable weather conditions. Climbers have to contend with vertiginous passages, steep slopes and tricky climbing sections. What's more, high-mountain weather can change rapidly, adding a further risk factor.
Climbing the Matterhorn is not just a question of technical skill, but also of mental preparation. Climbers need to be prepared for extreme conditions, including freezing temperatures, strong winds and high altitudes that can induce altitude sickness. The descent is equally perilous and requires just as much vigilance as the ascent.
Because of these challenges, it is strongly recommended that you attempt to climb the Matterhorn with an experienced mountain guide. Guides know the best routes, local weather conditions and can provide invaluable assistance in case of difficulty. Despite the risks, many climbers are attracted by the challenge and beauty of the Matterhorn, making its ascent an unforgettable experience for those who manage to reach the summit.
Is the Matterhorn in Switzerland?
Mont Cervin, also known as the Matterhorn, is located on the border between Switzerland in the Bernese Alps and Italy in Breuil-Cervinia. Although it is shared between the two countries, it is often associated with Switzerland due to its proximity to the famous ski resort of Zermatt, located on the Swiss side. The Matterhorn's most photographed and iconic north face is in Switzerland. However, the mountain itself spans both countries, offering climbing routes from both Switzerland and Italy.
What's so special about the Matterhorn's Lion's Ridge?
The Lion's Ridge, also known as “Cresta del Leone” (Lion's Ridge) in Italian, is one of the Matterhorn's most emblematic ascent routes. Located on the Italian side of the mountain, this ridge takes its name from its distinctive shape, reminiscent of a lion's mane. It is reputed to be one of the most difficult and technical routes to the summit of the Matterhorn.
The ascent via the Lion ridge usually begins in Breuil-Cervinia, an Italian ski resort. Mountaineers climb some 1,800 meters over a distance of 6 hours to reach the Carrel hut at 3,829 meters, where they spend the night before attempting the summit. This route is considered slightly more difficult than the Hörnli ridge, the normal Swiss route, due to its exposure and technical passages.
The Lion ridge is characterized by vertiginous passages and tricky climbing sections on mixed rock and ice terrain. Climbers have to cope with steep slopes, ledges and exposed sections that require a great deal of mountaineering experience and excellent physical condition. The route is equipped with fixed ropes and ladders to help climbers overcome the most difficult passages.
Historically, the Lion ridge was the route taken by the second successful ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865, shortly after the tragic first ascent via the Hörnli ridge. Today, it remains a major challenge for experienced climbers, offering a unique and demanding experience in one of the most spectacular high-mountain environments in the Alps.
What is the Matterhorn's normal route to the summit?
The normal route to the Matterhorn is the Hörnli ridge. Located on the Swiss side of the mountain, this is the route most frequently used by climbers to reach the summit. The route generally begins in Zermatt and passes through the Hörnli refuge, where climbers often spend the night before attempting the summit.
The Hörnli ridge is renowned as a demanding route, requiring good physical condition, mountaineering experience and technical skills in rock and ice climbing. Although it is the most common route, it remains difficult due to its exposure, technical passages and unpredictable high-mountain weather conditions.
The first successful ascent of the Matterhorn by this route took place in 1865, led by British mountaineer Edward Whymper. Unfortunately, this expedition is also famous for the tragedy that occurred on the descent, when four of the seven team members perished. Today, despite the challenges it presents, the Hörnli ridge remains the benchmark route for mountaineers seeking to climb this iconic mountain.
What equipment do I need to climb the Matterhorn?
Climbing the Matterhorn is a demanding undertaking, requiring specialized equipment to ensure the safety and success of the expedition. Here's a detailed list of the essential equipment needed to climb this iconic mountain:
1. Mountaineering boots: High-quality, cramponable, high-altitude boots are a must. They must offer good ankle support and be compatible with crampons.
2. Crampons and ice axe: Crampons are essential for progressing on icy or icy sections. An ice axe is also essential for balance and anchoring on steep slopes.
3. Harness and climbing gear: A comfortable, snug-fitting harness, equipped with screw-in carabiners, straps and a belay system, is crucial for climbing passages and roped belays.
4. Helmet: A mountaineering helmet protects against falling rocks and impacts in the event of a fall.
5. Technical clothing : - Base layer: Breathable merino wool or synthetic clothing to wick away moisture. - Mid-layer: Fleece or lightweight down jacket for insulation. - Outer layer: Waterproof and windproof jacket and pants, preferably Gore-Tex, for protection from the elements.
6. Gloves and hat: Warm, waterproof gloves and a hat or balaclava to protect you from the cold at altitude.
7. Rucksack: A lightweight, comfortable 30-40-liter rucksack to carry all your gear.
8. Headlamp: Essential for early starts and late returns, with spare batteries.
9. Glacier goggles and sun cream: UV-protective goggles and high factor sun cream to protect skin and eyes from the intense rays at altitude.
10. First-aid kit: A basic kit including bandages, painkillers and treatments for burns and cuts.
11. Food and hydration: Energy snacks, protein bars and plenty of water. A water bag can be handy for drinking easily on the move.
12. Rope: A dynamic 30-50-meter rope, suitable for mountaineering, for belaying and rappelling.
13. Communication equipment: A cell phone or radio for emergency communication, with spare batteries.
14. Sleeping bag and ground sheet: For nights in the refuge, a light sleeping bag and an insulating ground sheet.
It is strongly recommended to test all equipment before the ascent to ensure that it works properly and is comfortable. In addition, it's crucial to check the weather forecast and adapt your equipment accordingly. Finally, hiring an experienced mountain guide can greatly enhance the safety and success of the expedition.
Do I need a mountain guide to climb the Matterhorn?
Climbing the Matterhorn is a serious and potentially dangerous undertaking that requires extensive mountaineering experience, excellent physical condition and advanced technical skills. Although it's not a legal requirement to be accompanied by a mountain guide, there are several reasons why it's highly recommended to use a professional. A mountain guide is trained to manage the risks inherent in mountaineering, such as rock falls, changing weather conditions and technical passages, enabling informed decisions to be made to ensure the safety of the expedition. Our guides have a thorough knowledge of the mountain, its climbing routes and local conditions, enabling them to choose the best route according to prevailing conditions and avoid dangerous areas. In the event of an emergency or problem, a guide is prepared to intervene quickly and effectively, with the skills to administer first aid and coordinate an evacuation if necessary. For less experienced climbers, a guide can provide valuable training in climbing techniques, equipment use and control, and acclimatization strategies. In addition, a guide can help organize the logistics of the expedition, including booking huts and planning stages. Even experienced climbers can benefit from a guide's expertise, especially when attempting a new route or when conditions are particularly difficult. Ultimately, hiring a mountain guide can greatly increase the chances of success and safety when climbing the Matterhorn.
What level of climbing is required?
Climbing the Matterhorn is a demanding undertaking, requiring a high level of mountaineering experience and skill. Here are some key points concerning the level and experience required, as well as examples of difficulty ratings:
- Mountaineering experience: Mountaineers should have significant mountaineering experience, including previous ascents of peaks over 4,000 meters. A good command of snow, ice and rock climbing techniques is essential.
- Physical condition: Excellent physical condition is essential. The climb involves long days of sustained effort at high altitude, requiring stamina and endurance.
- Technical skills: Skills in rock climbing and the use of crampons and ice axes are crucial. Climbers must be comfortable with rope techniques, including belaying and rappelling.
- Acclimatization: Good acclimatization to altitude is necessary to minimize the risk of altitude sickness. This can be achieved by preparatory climbs at similar altitudes.
Difficulty ratings : - Normal route (Hörnli ridge): This route is generally rated AD (Assez Difficile) on the French alpine grading scale. It includes passages of III+ rock climbing and snow and ice slopes of up to 55 degrees. - Arête du Lion: This route is considered more difficult than the normal route, with passages up to IV in rock climbing and very exposed sections. It is often rated D (Difficult).
- Commitment and risks: The Matterhorn is a very committed mountain with significant objective risks, such as rock falls and changing weather conditions. The ability to make quick and safe decisions is essential.
- Mental preparation: In addition to physical and technical skills, solid mental preparation is required to cope with the challenges and risks inherent in this climb.
In short, climbing the Matterhorn is reserved for experienced mountaineers with solid mountaineering experience and a mastery of advanced mountaineering techniques. Physical and mental preparation, as well as acclimatization, are key to a successful ascent.
How much does it cost to climb the Matterhorn?
Although less famous than the Matterhorn itself, the Petit Cervin is a demanding undertaking that attracts many climbers. Located in the Alps, the Klein Matterhorn offers a unique mountain experience, with breathtaking views of the Matterhorn and surrounding peaks.
The Petit Cervin ascent is often used as a preparatory stage for those planning to climb the Matterhorn. It allows climbers to acclimatize to the altitude and familiarize themselves with the alpine terrain. The ascent route is generally less technical than that of the Matterhorn, but still requires good physical condition and some mountaineering experience.
The cost of climbing the Klein Matterhorn can vary depending on a number of factors, including the length of the expedition, the need for a mountain guide, and the cost of accommodation in refuges. In general, prices can start at around 2800 euros for a 3-day, all-inclusive ascent with an experienced mountain guide. This price often includes refuge accommodation, meals and supervision by a professional guide.
We strongly recommend using a certified mountain guide for this climb. Guides are familiar with the terrain and local weather conditions, which can greatly enhance the safety and success of the expedition. What's more, they can provide invaluable advice on the necessary equipment and climbing techniques.
In short, climbing the Petit Cervin is a rewarding adventure that offers ideal preparation for bigger challenges like the Matterhorn. Although the cost can be high, investment in a professional guide and the right equipment is essential to ensure a safe and memorable experience.
