Mont Blanc Massif
Ascent to Mont Blanc 4.810 in 4 days with acclimatistion
Technical lev. : 4.5 / 5
MOUNTAINEERING INTERMEDIATE LEVEL
Maximum 2 people per Guide.
You have experience in mountaineering and hiking and you have already made an ascent at altitude.
You are comfortable with crampons walking and at ease on hiking on glacier, you can manage a rope on easy routes at altitude.
Possible learning of more complex techniques: rescue, weather forecast and cartography (GPS)…
Level example: Lyskamm Nose (4272 mT) - Monte Rosa Massif
Physical lev. : 4.5 / 5
Intermediate level, between 4 and 5. Effort corresponding to approximately 1400m - 2000m of elevation.
The highest peak in Europe between Italy and France represents the apex of a mountain range (only 18 km of development), but extremely severe and dotted with many peaks over 4000 m.
To envision the highest peak in the Alps, you need to have mountaineering experience and have already achieved summits over 4000 meters!
Dates & Prices
Two people per guide during the 3 days, in order to maximize your chances of success.
Given the physical and technical difficulty of the Mont Blanc ascent, this course is only available on a private basis.
Dates available on request.
IMPORTANT : Since 2021, the reservations in the refuges of the normal way of Mont Blanc (Refuge of Tête Rousse and Refuge of Goûter) are mandatory and nominative to make the ascent. The opening of the reservations takes place in November / December for the following summer.
At the time of the opening of the reservations of the Tête Rousse and the Goûter refuge, we register the participants subject to the availability of the refuges at that time. We will confirm your Mont Blanc ascent after the huts' reservations have been validated.
We therefore advise you to start planning your ascent well in advance.
Ascent
The highest peak in Europe between Italy and France represents the apex of a mountain range (only 18 km of development), but extremely severe and dotted with many peaks over 4000 m.
The summit of Mont-Blanc has a large layer of ice on the northern slope, on the French side, which descends at low altitudes. The Italian side is also characterized by vast glacial surfaces, however it is much steeper and more impressive.
Mont Blanc is an ambitious point of arrival for mountaineers from all over the world, the ascent of this superb summit has a unique view of the Alps.
The ascent is generally carried out by the Refuge des Cosmiques, or the Refuge du Gouter.
This ascent requires good physical preparation because it takes around 8 to 10 hours of walking and climbing at altitude; in addition, it is necessary to have a good experience in the use of the ice ax and crampons.
If you do not have experience of cramponing and mountaineering at altitude, you must carry out with Esprit Montagne a training and acclimatization program with the ascent of different peaks in view of this great ascent (for example Gran Paradiso, Breithorn, Capanna Margherita, etc.).
This course is not suitable for beginner mountaineers, the ascent of Mont Blanc is an adventure that must remain an objective for confirmed mountaineers who already have good mountain experience with several 4000 meters on the counters.
This trip allows you to have an optimum physical and technical progression to attempt the summit on the 3rd or 4th day of the course.
In case of bad weather on the 3 rd day you may be diverted to the Gran Paradiso (4061 meters in the Valley d'Aosta) or Punta Gnifetti / Signalkuppe (4554 meters in the Monte Rosa massif) to achieve beautiful peaks or if you find that you are not fit enough for Mont Blanc. The price will be readjusted based on the alternative proposed.
The route will take place on the normal route of the Dôme du Goûter, it is a sporting challenge and to a lesser extent technical.
This course allows a good acclimatization to the altitude to avoid the problems of acute mountain sickness (pulmonary or cerebral edema ...) we ask you not to take any medication without informing your High Mountain Guide, he will explain them to you. effects of altitude on your body and need you to tell it how you feel to best manage the course to allow you to climb Mont Blanc.
To complete this information you can look at this link to the website of the Office de Haute Montagne de Chamonix which allows you to understand that the ascent of Mont Blanc is a mountaineer story.
Program
Meeting at 7:00 am in front of the Aiguille du Midi cable car (Chamonix), we check the equipment and we will take the cable car to the Aiguille du Midi (3842 m), after putting on the crampons and the equipment , we will descend the famous ridge of the Aiguille du Midi to arrive at the foot of Mont Blanc du Tacul, we will make its ascent, it is a 4000 meters which is already technical, but quickly accessible thanks to the ski lifts. At the top we will enjoy the view of Mont Blanc and Mont Maudit, this ascent allows you to acclimatize and see the conditions of the mountain. Your Guide will have time to show you different ways of tying and teach you several techniques and tips to improve your technique. We descend to the Cosmiques refuge (about 3,600 meters), where we will have dinner at sunset, before sleeping for our first night at altitude, it is a magical place to dream above the valley!
After a night at altitude in a superb high mountain world, we take the valley path, towards the summit of the Aiguille du Midi then the descent by cable car, the arrival in Chamonix is quick. We can take a short break in the living room before resuming our activities and heading towards Les Houches.
We take a shuttle to Les Houches and take the Bellevue cable car then the Mont Blanc Tramway to reach the Eagle's Nest.
Here we are at the start of the Voie Normale du Mont Blanc, after a short climb to the Tête Rousse refuge, we put our things down and observe the mountain to decide with your guide on the departure time for the next day. We spend the end of the afternoon resting and eating, tomorrow the departure will be very early. Another guide joined us for the climb the next day. To maximize the chances of success and increase safety.
We leave very early at the beginning of the night, to start the day with the couloir du Gouter, it is normally frozen, which limits rockfall. The climb is rapid thanks to the adaptation of your body to the altitude we have been above 3000 meters of altitude for almost 48 hours. We arrive at the Gouter refuge, the Alpinists who slept at more than 3800 meters, leaving the refuge and we all leave for the summit. Normally we were able to rest better at 3200 meters and we are walking well to reach the Dôme du Gouter then the bumps of Mont Blanc and finally the Summit!
The view is superb at the top and we enjoy the view from the roof of Europe, then the time comes for the descent, after this long climb we make a short descent and sleep at the Gouter refuge. We took advantage of the exceptional view offered to us on our last night at altitude, the highest at over 3800 meters.
The night allows the re-freezing of the couloir du Gouter, we will descend with the first light of day in the north face, quickly we will reach the Tête Rousse refuge before the rock falls resume. We then descend by the path that we had taken 48 hours previously to reach Houches then Chamonix to enjoy the capital of mountaineering and the view of the summit of Mont Blanc!
End of the mountaineering course, see you soon for new heights!
IMPORTANT: The programme described above is given as an example.
Esprit des Guides SA or the Guide may modify the programme if they deem it necessary due to the weather, the mountain conditions or if the participants do not have the physical or technical level required to complete the ascent.
With the exception of the periods during which the ascent of the normal route of the Goûter is exceptionally suspended, no modification of the programme can be the object of a refund and ensure the safety of all participants.
Materiel
Mont Blanc is a small expedition, it is a difficult summit that should not be taken lightly, the ascent is only possible in good weather with little wind, at nearly 5000 meters above sea level. can change extremely quickly despite a good weather forecast. You must therefore have all the equipment on the list!
First layer on the skin - underwear:
Second layer:
Third layer:
Last layer:
Do not forget:
If you have any doubts or simply need clarification on what gear to take for your climb, you can take a look at our Blog page "What gear for mountaineering?"
IMPORTANT: if a person is not properly equipped and dressed, the mountain guide may decide not to allow him/her to take part in the climb. We ask you to read carefully the equipment list provided in the programme PDF and to call us if you have any doubts.
Level
A long glacial and rocky route that requires very good training, a very good technical level and a good capacity for concentration.
Some short sections are steep (50°), sometimes icy and require a good command of the use of ice axes and crampons. Finally, a good adaptation to the high altitude is also necessary. Some people do not manage to acclimatise despite the steps they have taken to adapt.
A good previous mountaineering experience is necessary: it is necessary to have already climbed 4000m summits one or two weeks before the Mont Blanc and that the ascent was done easily without acclimatization problems.
We have designed this programme with a day and night of acclimatisation in the beginning, to allow you to have the best possible progression at high altitude.
The guides only take people to Mont Blanc who have recently acclimatized, who are physically fit and trained for this type of ascent and who are technically prepared. If you are a beginner in mountaineering, we offer two options: the 6 day Mont Blanc course or a 2 or 3 day program with technical preparation and acclimatization (please contact us).
The climb of Mont Blanc is a long purely glacial route that requires good training, a good technical level and a good capacity of concentration. Some short sections are steep (55°), sometimes icy, and require a good command of the use of ice axe and crampons.
Good altitude acclimatisation is necessary to increase the chances to reach the summit and to avoid mountain sickness: it is necessary to have already climbed a 3500 meters summit or to have slept at altitude one or two weeks before the Mont Blanc.
You will be climbing on a high mountain itinerary, you must be aware of the dangers associated with this activity and this climb (crevasses, serac falls, rock falls, avalanches, very low temperatures).
We are at your disposal to answer your questions.
Useful info
Attention! The success rate for climbing Mont Blanc with a guide is about 70%. Most failures are due to the weather. It often happens that, above 4000 m, wind or bad weather make the ascent impossible or too dangerous. We try to anticipate these factors as much as possible and make the best decisions in order to maximize the chances of achieving the summit.
In any case, the priority will always be safety. The mountain guide will evaluate the feasibility of the ascent and will make the decision to continue or not the ascent.
Based on the weather forecast, we confirm the possibility of attempting the climb three days before departure. However, it can happen that the weather is different from the one forecasted (frequent case in Chamonix). In this case, on the morning of the departure, the guide can still decide to change the program or to cancel the ascent.
If the group does not reach the summit for different reasons (bad weather, bad mountain conditions, fatigue or illness of one of the participants...), no refund or compensation is foreseen. Please check our Terms and Conditions.
If the mountain or weather conditions do not allow the climb to take place as planned, if possible an alternative programme will be proposed and the price will be adjusted accordingly.
The guides only take people who are recently acclimatized, physically fit and trained for this type of ascent and technically prepared. If you are a beginner in mountaineering, we offer two options: the 6 day Mont Blanc course or a 2 or 3 day program with technical preparation and acclimatization (consult us).
In order to guarantee the safety of the group, if your technical level and/or your physical condition do not correspond to those required for the ascent, the guide and the organization reserve the right to interrupt your ascent. This interruption will not give rise to any reimbursement or payment of compensation.
IMPORTANT: The programme described above is given as an example.
Esprit des Guides SA or the Guide may modify the programme if they deem it necessary due to the weather, the mountain conditions or if the participants do not have the physical or technical level required to complete the ascent and ensure the safety of all participants.
With the exception of the periods during which the ascent of the normal route of the Goûter is exceptionally suspended, no modification of the programme can be the object of a refund.
If you wish, we can arrange a taxi for you from the airport: please ask for details when booking.
Meeting with the mountain guide at 7:00 a.m. in front of the Aiguille du Midi cablecar departure in Chamonix: click here to see the map.
End of the tour at the Aiguille du Midi cablecar departure in Chamonix Mont-Blanc, between 12:00 and 2:00 p.m.
You can park your car at the Planards parking in Chamonix, there is a free parking.
If the group does not reach the summit for any reason (bad weather, bad mountain conditions, tiredness or discomfort of one of the participants...), no refund or compensation is provided. Check our Terms and Conditions.
Cancellation and repatriation insurance is mandatory, as is mountain search and rescue insurance (minimum cover of 10,000 Euros).
Esprit Montagne offers the following insurance: https://www.assurance-multi-sports.com.
When you register online, you can choose whether or not you wish to take part in the car-sharing scheme to get to the starting point of your course. Once you have made your booking, you can log back into your Esprit Montagne account to access a section dedicated to carpooling. Here you will find the contacts of the other participants who are interested in car-sharing, so that you can contact them directly.
. Guiding of the UIAGM Mountain Guide of our team, plus his/her accommodation and meal expenses
. Collective equipment (ropes, karabiners etc)
. The cost of the ski lifts required for the programme
. Half board in the refuge for 3 nights
. Rental of crampons, ice ax and harness (around 15/20 euros per person)
. The midday meals at the refuge so that you can eat the way you want and the snacks to take with along the ascent, so that you eat what you wish and digest: everyone reacts differently at altitude
. Anything not mentioned in "the price includes"
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