Ascent

Ascent to Mont Blanc

The highest peak of Europe over Italy and France represents the acme of a mountain range not too large (only 18 km its development) but extremely severe and sprinkled with many peaks over 4000 m. The peak is represented by a large ice sheet on the French side that goes down to lower altitudes; the Italian side, also characterized by vast glacial surfaces, is however much more severe and impressive. Ambitious arrival point of mountaineers from all over the world, is an interesting place and great satisfaction.

The ascent normally starts from the Refuge du Gouter.

This ascent requires a good physical preparation because it takes between 8 and 12 hours of walking and climbing at altitude; moreover, it is necessary to have some experience in the use of ice axe and crampons.

If you do not have experience in cramponing and mountaineering at altitude, you must complete a training and acclimatization program with Esprit Montagne with the ascent of different summits in view of this great ascent (e.g. Gran Paradiso, Castor, Punta Gnifetti / Signalkuppe at Monte Rosa, etc.).

Mont Blanc is a difficult summit, it is important to be well prepared and acclimatized to achieve its ascent and to live a superb adventure.

To complete this information you can look at this link to the website of the Office de Haute Montagne de Chamonix which allows you to understand that the ascent of Mont Blanc is a mountaineer story.

Program

Climbing Mont Blanc - 3 days programme :

The program is approximate and, in case of bad weather, there might be variations to be agreed between the guide and the participants.

DAY 1 : Walk to the Tête Rousse refuge

Vertical drop: +700 m

Meeting with the mountain guide at 11:00 am in Les Houches (Chamonix Valley), at the departure of the Bellevue cable car. You will then take  the Mont Blanc Tramway which brings you to the Nid d'Aigle at 2300m. Then a 3-4 hour hike to the Tête Rousse glacier awaits us.

Dinner and overnight stay at the Tête Rousse hut (3167m).

DAY 2: ASCENT OF MONT BLANC,
Tête Rousse hut - Aiguille du Gouter - Dôme du Gouter - Mont Blanc - Gouter hut

Vertical drop: + 1700 m / - 1000 m

The longest day of about 10 hours. Departure at 5am via the Tête Rousse glacier to reach the famous Gouter couloir.

The climb passes through rocky sections to reach the Aiguille du Gouter and the Cabane du Gouter, where we can take a short break.

We then climb the Dôme de Gouter and continue to the Vallot hut. Then we start the famous Arête des Bosses, which can be more or less technical depending on the conditions.

The second slope is technically easier, but the effects of the altitude and fatigue will start to show.  With motivation we will continue the ascent before climbing the final ridge that leads to the summit of Mont Blanc.

At the summit we will have time to contemplate the view of the Western Alps, take photos, catch our breath and congratulate each other!
Then it's time for the descent, after this long climb we make a short descent and sleep at the Refuge du Gouter. We enjoy the exceptional view for our last night in altitude, the highest at over 3800 metres.

Please note that the Gouter and Tete Rousse huts are interchangeable, depending on when we can get reservations.

Dinner and overnight at the Gouter hut (3800m).

DAY 3 - Descent
Refuge du Gouter - Descent of the Aiguille du Gouter - Refuge de Tête Rousse - Nid d'Aigle - Saint Gervais

Vertical drop: - 1500 m

The night allows the Gouter couloir to refreeze, we will descend with the first light of day on the north face, quickly reaching the Tête Rousse refuge before the rock falls start again. We will then go back down by the path we took 48 hours before to reach Les Houches and then Chamonix to enjoy a well deserved beer in the mountaineering capital and a spectacular view on the Mont Blanc summit!

IMPORTANT: The programme described above is given as an example.
Esprit des Guides SA or the Guide may modify the programme if they deem it necessary due to the weather, the mountain conditions or if the participants do not have the physical or technical level required to complete the ascent.
With the exception of the periods during which the ascent of the normal route of the Goûter is exceptionally suspended, no modification of the programme can be the object of a refund and ensure the safety of all participants.

Materiel

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT

• Hiking Goretex shoes suitable to crampons
• crampons
• walking poles
• iceaxe
• helmet.

HOW TO DRESS

First layer on the skin:

• (merino wool) thermal/breathable long sleeve
• (merino wool) long thermal/breathable underwear
• woolen warm socks

Second layer:

• warm technical sweater
• waterproof & windproof hiking pants

Third layer:

• thin but warm down jacket 

Last layer:

• waterproof & windproof Goretex jacket

Important Additionals:

• sleeping sheet for the hut
• warm winter hat
• buff/head-neckband
• warm winter gloves
• headlamp
• water bottle and thermos
• suncream (protection factor 50+)
• sunglasses
• camera

If you have any doubts or simply need clarification on what gear to take for your climb, you can take a look at our Blog page "What gear for mountaineering?"

N.B. Consider a change for when you are back to the hut (you can leave some stuff at the hut).

IMPORTANT: if a person is not properly equipped and dressed, the mountain guide may decide not to allow him/her to take part in the climb. We ask you to read carefully the equipment list provided in the programme PDF and to call us if you have any doubts.

Level

Level required for climbing Mont Blanc

Long route purely glacial that requires good training, good technical level and good ability to concentrate. Some short sections are steep (55 °), sometimes icy, and require a good mastery in the use of ice axe and crampons.
This ascent requires good physical preparation because it takes about 10 to 12 hours of climbing at high altitude; moreover it is necessary to have some experience in the use of ice axe and crampons. 

A good previous mountaineering experience is necessary. The ascent of Mont Blanc is accessible to people with very good mountaineering experience, with a very good physical level and good previous acclimatization done 1 week / 10 days before the climb.

The guides only take people to Mont Blanc who have recently acclimatized, who are physically fit and trained for this type of ascent and who are technically prepared. If you are a beginner in mountaineering, we offer two options: the 5 day Mont Blanc course or a 2 or 3 day program with technical preparation and acclimatization (please contact us).

The climb of Mont Blanc is a long purely glacial route that requires good training, a good technical level and a good capacity of concentration. Some short sections are steep (55°), sometimes icy, and require a good command of the use of ice axe and crampons.

Good altitude acclimatisation is necessary to increase the chances to reach the summit and to avoid mountain sickness: it is necessary to have already climbed a 3500 meters summit or to have slept at altitude one or two weeks before the Mont Blanc. 

You will be climbing on a high mountain itinerary, you must be aware of the dangers associated with this activity and this climb (crevasses, serac falls, rock falls, avalanches, very low temperatures).

We are at your disposal to answer your questions.

TRAINING and ACCLIMATATION:

It is very important that : 

1. you are in excellent shape for the ascent: +1700 m ascent on summit day - you need to train to be able to do this ascent without too much effort; the day of the ascent should not be the first time you have done +1700 m ascent;

2. you are well acclimatized: for this, we recommend training on summits between 3000 and 4000 meters and sleeping in a refuge at 3500 meters altitude 10 to 15 days before the ascent (example: the Torino refuge on the Italian side of Mont Blanc).

HOW TO TRAIN FOR CLIMBING MONT BLANC?

• Do regular physical activity and endurance training throughout the year;
• Specific training: train in the mountains, on races with progressive gradients (500 mt; 1000 mt; 1500 mt), a few months before your departure date; you must be able to support a positive and negative gradient of 1500 m, without getting too tired.
• Remember that the weight of your pack and the altitude have an effect on your usual fitness: don't overestimate your capacities and train to optimize your chances of success and enjoy your ascent to the 4000 highest in Europe!

Useful infos

Useful information to plan your Mont Blanc climb

IMPORTANT : Metereological and mountain conditions

Attention! The success rate for climbing Mont Blanc with a guide is about 70%. Most failures are due to the weather. It often happens that, above 4000 m, wind or bad weather make the ascent impossible or too dangerous. We try to anticipate these factors as much as possible and make the best decisions in order to maximize the chances of achieving the summit.

In any case, the priority will always be safety. The mountain guide will evaluate the feasibility of the ascent and will make the decision to continue or not the ascent.

Based on the weather forecast, we confirm the possibility of attempting the climb three days before departure. However, it can happen that the weather is different from the one forecasted (frequent case in Chamonix). In this case, on the morning of the departure, the guide can still decide to change the program or to cancel the ascent.

If the group does not reach the summit for different reasons (bad weather, bad mountain conditions, fatigue or illness of one of the participants...), no refund or compensation is foreseen. Please check our Terms and Conditions.

If the mountain or weather conditions do not allow the climb to take place as planned, if possible an alternative programme will be proposed and the price will be adjusted accordingly.

Required level 

The guides only take people who are recently acclimatized, physically fit and trained for this type of ascent and technically prepared. If you are a beginner in mountaineering, we offer two options: the 6 day Mont Blanc course or a 2 or 3 day program with technical preparation and acclimatization (consult us).

In order to guarantee the safety of the group, if your technical level and/or your physical condition do not correspond to those required for the ascent, the guide and the organization reserve the right to interrupt your ascent. This interruption will not give rise to any reimbursement or payment of compensation.

How to reach Chamonix

• Via Geneva or other French airports: you can easily reach Chamonix by train from the main French airports or Geneva airport;
• Via the French train network to Chamonix station.

If you wish, we can arrange a taxi for you from the airport: please ask for details when booking.

Meeting point on the first day

Meeting with the mountain guide at 12:30 in Saint Gervais Le Fayet at the departure of the Mont Blanc Tramway: click here to see the map.

Last day 

The group will say goodbye in Saint Gervais, at the Mont Blanc Tramway departure, between 12:00 and 2:00 p.m.

Car parking

You can park your car in front of the Saint Gervais train station, there is a free parking. 

Training: How to train for climbing Mont Blanc

• Do regular physical activity and endurance training throughout the year;
• Specific training: train in the mountains, on races with progressive gradients (500 mt; 1000 mt; 1500 mt), a few months before your departure date; you must be able to support a positive and negative gradient of 1500 m, without getting too tired.
• Remember that the weight of your pack and the altitude have an effect on your usual fitness: don't overestimate your capacities and train to optimize your chances of success and enjoy your ascent to the 4000 highest in Europe!

Guiding: 2 people per guide during the 3 days, to optimise your chances of success.

If the group does not reach the summit for any reason (bad weather, bad mountain conditions, tiredness or discomfort of one of the participants...), no refund or compensation is provided. Check our Terms and Conditions.

Insurance

Cancellation and repatriation insurance is mandatory, as is mountain search and rescue insurance (minimum cover of 10,000 Euros).

Esprit Montagne offers the following insurance: https://www.assurance-multi-sports.com.

Car sharing

When you register online, you can choose whether or not you wish to take part in the car-sharing scheme to get to the starting point of your course. Once you have made your booking, you can log back into your Esprit Montagne account to access a section dedicated to carpooling. Here you will find the contacts of the other participants who are interested in car-sharing, so that you can contact them directly.