Monte Rosa Massif
Pollux and Castor ascent
Technical lev. : 4 / 5
CONFIRMED MOUNTAINEERING
You have experience in mountaineering and have already climbed at altitude. You are autonomous and master the activity, you can manage a rope on an easy route in the high mountains.
Physical lev. : 4 / 5
SPORTY AND VERY WELL TRAINED PEOPLE
Effort corresponding to 1500m - 2000m of ascent in hiking.
You like and practice endurance sports at a very good level.
The Ayas valley, located in the Aosta Valley region, stands out for its remarkable preservation, nestling at the feet of the Monte Rosa massif on the Italian side. From the refuge Guides d'Ayas, a number of emblematic peaks over 4,000 metres can be reached: here we offer you the chance to climb Pollux and Castor on a three-day mountaineering course.
At 4,092 metres, Pollux has a unique character despite its modest size, while Castor, at 4,223 metres, offers a traverse that is considered to be one of the finest alpine climbs at this level.
Dates & Prices
Arrival
End
Price *
Status
Du 16/06/2025 au 18/06/2025
au 18/06/2025
1260 €
FULL
Du 01/07/2025 au 03/07/2025
au 03/07/2025
1260 €
Bookings in progress
Du 15/07/2025 au 17/07/2025
au 17/07/2025
1260 €
Bookings in progress
Du 29/07/2025 au 31/07/2025
au 31/07/2025
1260 €
Bookings in progress
Du 08/08/2025 au 10/08/2025
au 10/08/2025
1260 €
Bookings in progress
* Price per person (without insurance)
Dates available on request. Contact us at info@espritmontagne.com.
Trip
Castor and Pollux are two names from classical mythology that symbolise friendship: these twin peaks are linked by their eternal proximity. We invite you to climb them on a beautiful loop that will take you through two different valleys in the Italian Alps.
We'll have three days to climb high and cross the wild valleys of Ayas and Gressoney, in the heart of the Monte Rosa massif.
We'll start with the ascent of Pollux, a small, characterful summit on mixed terrain with aerial sections. We'll then climb Castor (which is higher in altitude) via the north-west ridge: a very aesthetic traverse!
Program
Vertical drop: + 1200 / - 700m
Length: approximately 5 to 6 hours
Meet your mountain guide at 9am in Staffal, Gressoney. After checking your equipment, you'll take the cable car up to Colle di Bettaforca. From here, you'll descend into the Val d'Ayas to reach the Piani di Verra, where we'll take the path up to the Ayas Guides' hut.
Vertical drop: + 770 / - 680m
Length: approximately 7 to 8 hours ascent (4 to 5 hours on the outward journey)
At first light, we'll climb the first rocky section to reach an altitude of 3,980m, where we'll tackle the short cabled section leading to the rocky balcony where the snow-covered ridge of the Pollux summit begins. Return by the same route to the Guide di Ayas refuge, where we'll spend the night again.
Vertical drop: + 825 / - 1.550m
Length: approximately 7 to 8 hours ascent (4 to 5 hours descent)
We wake up early and set off after a good breakfast. We'll head up along the Verra glacier, staying on the left orographic slope, towards the col of the same name, which separates the north-western slopes of the Pollux and Castor. Just before the col, we turn and head for the base of the NW face of the Castor, which we approach by zig-zagging between crevasses (45-50° gradient). We then join the fairly narrow summit ridge, which leads to the summit in just a few metres. We'll then start the descent along the ridge towards the Quintino Sella refuge, where you'll stop to eat some pasta, before descending to the Bettaforca pass along a rocky path. From here, take the cable car back to Staffal and Gressoney.
In fine weather, you'll have an exceptional view of the entire Monte Rosa massif, a large part of the Matterhorn massif, Gran Paradiso and Mont Blanc!
Materiel
First layer on the skin:
Second layer:
Third layer:
Last layer:
If you have any doubts or simply need clarification on what gear to take for your climb, you can take a look at our Blog page "What gear for mountaineering?"
N.B. Consider a change for when you are back to the hut (you can leave some stuff at the hut).
Level
SPORTY AND VERY WELL TRAINED PEOPLE
Effort corresponding to 1500m - 2000m of ascent in hiking.
You like and practice endurance sports at a very good level.
For mountaineering: even if the elevation gain is less, staying at high altitude for several days will have a significant effect on your usual physical performance.
CONFIRMED MOUNTAINEERING
You have experience in mountaineering and have already climbed at altitude. You are autonomous and master the activity, you can manage a rope on an easy route in the high mountains.
. The guiding of a UIAGM Mountain Guide from our team, plus his/her accommodation and meal expenses.
. Collective equipment (ropes, karabiners, etc.)
. Cable car ticket from Gressoney to Col de Bettaforca
. 1/2 board at the refuge for you and the guide.
. Personal technical equipment: crampons, helmet, ice axe and harness.
. Lunch, drinks and snacks so that you can eat as you wish in the refuge.
. Everything not mentioned in "Price includes".
Photo gallery
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A climb like Pollux and Castor requires careful physical and mental preparation. Gradual conditioning is recommended to get your body used to working at altitude.
- Cardiovascular training: regular practice of endurance sports such as cycling, swimming or running.
- Muscular strengthening: specific work on the muscles used during the ascent, particularly the legs and back.
- Mental preparation: developing your ability to manage the effort over time, the discomfort and stress associated with altitude and changing climatic conditions.
- Acclimatisation to altitude: if possible, make one or more lower altitude ascents before your main climb.
Finally, good nutrition and quality sleep are essential throughout your preparation.
Mont Rose, located between Switzerland and Italy, is a majestic massif made up of several peaks. The highest of these peaks is the Pointe Dufour, which reaches an altitude of 4,634 metres. It is the highest peak in Switzerland and the second highest in the Alps, after Mont Blanc.
Other major peaks in the Monte Rosa massif include the Pointe Zumstein (4,562m), the Signalkuppe (4,553m), the Pointe Parrot (4,434m) and the Ludwigshöhe (4,342m).
Each of these peaks offers unique challenges and opportunities for climbers.
We offer a range of programs of varying levels and conditions. Our aim is to enable you to progress, by learning the techniques of cramponing, ice axe and rope use, and to give you the desire to continue mountaineering. We also want to accompany you on the climbs, so that you can benefit from the experience and knowledge of the guides in our team. You can find out more about our programme of courses here:
