Swiss Alps
The Matterhorn: a 3-day ascent
Technical lev. : 5 / 5
You have a high level of proficiency in mountain climbing, progression and rescue techniques. You're comfortable with aerial passages on ridges. You've already done a 4000m climb and it went very well.
Physical lev. : 5 / 5
The Matterhorn, known as the Cervin in German, is a mountain on the border between Valle d'Aosta in Italy and Valais in Switzerland. It's a mythical peak with a demanding ascent that requires a high level of physical and mental fitness. We offer a 3-day ascent of this summit.
Dates & Prices
Dates available on request. Contact us at info@espritmontagne.com.
Journey
The Matterhorn (4,478 m) is a pyramid that represents a classic and demanding ascent in the world of mountaineering. It is the crowning achievement of a serious mountaineering career, combining technical skill and endurance on a summit with complex terrain.
We usually propose an ascent via the Lion ridge (Italian side), also known as the Italian normal route. As the Carrel hut is currently being renovated, we are proposing an ascent of the Matterhorn via the Swiss side from Zermatt, with an overnight stay at the Hornli hut.
As this is a technical summit, our proposal is to spend the first day acclimatizing with your guide, so that you can get your bearings together, before climbing the Matterhorn proper in two days.
Program
Vertical drop: + 1350 m and - 1350 m
Duration: 7 to 8 hours
Meeting with the mountain guide either in Aosta or directly in the Valpelline valley.
Hike to the start of the route, via the Rifugio Crête Sèche.
Climb this technical rock route, with some aerial sections and several exposed abseils on the way down.
Descent to the car. Evening and accommodation to be arranged independently.
Vertical drop: + 680 m
Duration: 6 to 7 hours
Meet the guide directly in Zermatt (or transfer together from Aosta) to take the cable car to the Schwarzsee intermediate station. From here, it's a 2 to 3-hour walk to the Hornlihuette, where you'll spend the night.
Vertical drop: + 1220 m and - 1930 m
Duration: 10 to 12 hours
Leave the hut at around 4.30 a.m. and climb the summit in 4/5 hours before returning to the hut and taking the Schwarzsee cable car back down to Zermatt.
Equipment
First layer on the skin:
Second layer:
Third layer:
Last layer:
Important Additionals:
If you have any doubts or simply need clarification on what gear to take for your climb, you can take a look at our Blog page "What gear for mountaineering?"
N.B. Consider a change for when you are back to the hut (you can leave some stuff at the hut).
IMPORTANT: if a person is not properly equipped and dressed, the mountain guide may decide not to allow him/her to take part in the climb. We ask you to read carefully the equipment list provided in the programme PDF and to call us if you have any doubts.
Level
You are experienced in the sport activity of the purchased trip.
Effort corresponding to 1700 - 2500 meters of ascent in hiking per day.
You are highly trained and fit at the moment.
You have mastered high mountain progression and have a high level of mountain, progression and rescue techniques. You're comfortable with aerial passages on ridges. You have already completed a 4000m climb and it went very well.
The Matterhorn is a very technical mixed ascent, with aerial and vertical passages on snow and rocky ridges, which require very good technique and mastery of crampons, no fear of heights and very good physical condition to be able to be very focused on the most technical passages.
On the day of the summit, you should expect to spend a total of 10-12 hours walking and climbing at altitude. There are 1120 m of vertical drop and 1930 m of negative drop.
The climb is rated 4+. This means you need to be trained to walk and climb for several hours at altitude, and have experience and a good attitude to mixed terrain;
The route is equipped with fixed ropes to help with the most difficult sections.
A list of 4000-metre peaks and mixed climbs is required to book this programme.
Useful infos
Meeting point on DAY 1 with the Guide in Aosta / Bionaz valley (to be arranged with the Guide).
Return to Zermatt in the afternoon at around 16:00.
Cancellation and repatriation insurance is mandatory, as is mountain search and rescue insurance (minimum cover of 10,000 Euros). Esprit Montagne offers the following insurance: https://www.assurance-multi-sports.com.
The week before your departure, you will receive a reminder by email with all the information concerning the meeting and the guide in charge of your group.
Esprit Montagne / Esprit des Guides SA takes care of the hut reservation, you do not need to think about it.
French-speaking UIAGM mountain guide in our team.
If the mountain or weather conditions make it impossible to carry out the ascent as planned, an alternative programme will be proposed wherever possible, the price will be adjusted accordingly and the guide's days will not be cancelled.
. Supervision by an experienced mountain guide from our team (one guide = one client) ;
. Use of group equipment (ropes, pitons, carabiners) ;
. Half-board at the Hornlihuette hut for you and the guide on day 2 ;
. Cable car tickets from Zermatt to Schwarzsee station (return) on D2 and D3.
. Personal technical equipment: crampons, harness and ice axe (if you need to hire, please let us know) ;
. accommodation between the first and second day, which the customer organises independently ;
. Lunches, drinks and personal expenses ;
. Transfer from Aosta to Zermatt (if the guide can carpool with you, there is no extra charge, otherwise there is a supplement of €70) ;
. Everything not explicitly mentioned in the ‘Price includes’ section.
Photo gallery
Any question?
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