The Matterhorn: 3-day ascent
Between Valais and Val d'Aosta

Swiss Alps

The Matterhorn: a 3-day ascent

3 days and 2 nights
Participants : 1
June to September
All inclusive in Refuge

The Matterhorn, known as the Cervin in German, is a mountain on the border between Valle d'Aosta in Italy and Valais in Switzerland. It's a mythical peak with a demanding ascent that requires a high level of physical and mental fitness. We offer a 3-day ascent of this summit.

From 2850

Dates & Prices

Arrival

End

Price *

Status

Du 15/07/2025 au 17/07/2025

au 17/07/2025

2850 €

Bookings in progress

* Price per person (without insurance)

Dates available on request. Contact us at info@espritmontagne.com.

Journey

Matterhorn ascent

The Matterhorn (4,478 m) is a pyramid that represents a classic and demanding ascent in the world of mountaineering. It is the crowning achievement of a serious mountaineering career, combining technical skill and endurance on a summit with complex terrain.
We usually propose an ascent via the Lion ridge (Italian side), also known as the Italian normal route. As the Carrel hut is currently being renovated, we are proposing an ascent of the Matterhorn via the Swiss side from Zermatt, with an overnight stay at the Hornli hut.
As this is a technical summit, our proposal is to spend the first day acclimatizing with your guide, so that you can get your bearings together, before climbing the Matterhorn proper in two days.

Program

3-day Matterhorn ascent programme

DAY 1 : Aosta Valley - Valpelline - Crossing the Vierge dell'Aroletta

Vertical drop: + 1350 m and - 1350 m
Duration: 7 to 8 hours

Meeting with the mountain guide either in Aosta or directly in the Valpelline valley.
Hike to the start of the route, via the Rifugio Crête Sèche.
Climb this technical rock route, with some aerial sections and several exposed abseils on the way down.
Descent to the car. Evening and accommodation to be arranged independently.

DAY 2 : Zermatt - Hornlihuette

Vertical drop: + 680 m
Duration: 6 to 7 hours

Meet the guide directly in Zermatt (or transfer together from Aosta) to take the cable car to the Schwarzsee intermediate station. From here, it's a 2 to 3-hour walk to the Hornlihuette, where you'll spend the night.

DAY 3 : Hornlihuette - Matterhorn summit - Zermatt

Vertical drop: + 1220 m and - 1930 m
Duration: 10 to 12 hours

Leave the hut at around 4.30 a.m. and climb the summit in 4/5 hours before returning to the hut and taking the Schwarzsee cable car back down to Zermatt.

Equipment

Equipment for climbing the Matterhorn :

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT

high-quality, cramponable Goretex mountaineering boots
crampons and ice axe
harness
40-litre backpack
walking poles
mountaineering helmet.

HOW TO DRESS for a 4000 metres ascent

First layer on the skin:

(merino wool) thermal/breathable long sleeve
(merino wool) long thermal/breathable underwear
woolen warm socks

Second layer:

warm technical sweater
waterproof & windproof hiking pants

Third layer:

thin but warm duvet (to wear just in case of cold temperatures)

Last layer:

waterproof & windproof Goretex jacket

Important Additionals:

sleeping sheet for the hut
warm winter hat
buff/head-neckband
warm winter gloves
headlamp
suncream (protection factor 50+)
sunglasses
camera

If you have any doubts or simply need clarification on what gear to take for your climb, you can take a look at our Blog page "What gear for mountaineering?"

N.B. Consider a change for when you are back to the hut (you can leave some stuff at the hut).

IMPORTANT: if a person is not properly equipped and dressed, the mountain guide may decide not to allow him/her to take part in the climb. We ask you to read carefully the equipment list provided in the programme PDF and to call us if you have any doubts.

Level

PHYSICAL LEVEL 5/5
SPORT HIGH LEVEL

You are experienced in the sport activity of the purchased trip.
Effort corresponding to 1700 - 2500 meters of ascent in hiking per day.
You are highly trained and fit at the moment.

TECHNICAL LEVEL 5/5
EXPERT MOUNTAINEERING :

You have mastered high mountain progression and have a high level of mountain, progression and rescue techniques. You're comfortable with aerial passages on ridges. You have already completed a 4000m climb and it went very well.

Description of the activity :

The Matterhorn is a very technical mixed ascent, with aerial and vertical passages on snow and rocky ridges, which require very good technique and mastery of crampons, no fear of heights and very good physical condition to be able to be very focused on the most technical passages.

On the day of the summit, you should expect to spend a total of 10-12 hours walking and climbing at altitude. There are 1120 m of vertical drop and 1930 m of negative drop.
The climb is rated 4+. This means you need to be trained to walk and climb for several hours at altitude, and have experience and a good attitude to mixed terrain;
The route is equipped with fixed ropes to help with the most difficult sections.
A list of 4000-metre peaks and mixed climbs is required to book this programme.

Useful infos

Useful Information

Meeting point on the first day

Meeting point on DAY 1 with the Guide in Aosta / Bionaz valley (to be arranged with the Guide).

End of the ascent

Return to Zermatt in the afternoon at around 16:00.

Insurance

Cancellation and repatriation insurance is mandatory, as is mountain search and rescue insurance (minimum cover of 10,000 Euros). Esprit Montagne offers the following insurance: https://www.assurance-multi-sports.com.

Organisation

The week before your departure, you will receive a reminder by email with all the information concerning the meeting and the guide in charge of your group.

Esprit Montagne / Esprit des Guides SA takes care of the hut reservation, you do not need to think about it.

Guiding

French-speaking UIAGM mountain guide in our team.

HOW TO REACH AOSTA VALLEY

Via Chamonix Mont Blanc – you can reach Chamonix by train from the main French airports or from Geneva airport – then you can reach Courmayeur – Aosta Valley through the Mont Blanc Tunnel (there are buses connections from Chamonix to Aosta Valley, but if you would like to be free to move it is advisable to rent a car).
Via Geneva or Martigny – you can easily reach Martigny by train from Geneva airport - then you reach Aosta city center via the tunnel of Grand Saint Bernard (there are buses connections from Martigny to Aosta Valley, but if you would like to be free to move it is advisable to rent a car).
Via Milan/Turin airport – rent a car directly to reach Aosta via the highway ; by train: https://www.trenitalia.com/trenitalia-france.html
Or via Bourg Saint Maurice (73700, France) - Col du Petit Saint Bernard - you can reach Bourg Saint Maurice by train from the main French airports. Once in Bourg Saint Maurice you will need to rent a car to reach the Aosta Valley via the Col du Petit Saint Bernard (2 hours drive). It's a slightly longer trip but you can save the toll at the Mont Blanc Tunnel.

Public transports Aosta Valley

Bus trasport from Chamonix to Courmayeur: https://aosta.arriva.it/line/courmayeur-chamonix/
Bus trasport from Courmayeur to Aosta : https://aosta.arriva.it/en/line/aosta-courmayeur-2/
Bus transport from Milan to Aosta: https://aosta.arriva.it/en/aosta-milano/
Bus transport whithin the Aosta Region: https://aosta.arriva.it/en/timetables-and-routes/

POOR WEATHER OR MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS

If the mountain or weather conditions make it impossible to carry out the ascent as planned, an alternative programme will be proposed wherever possible, the price will be adjusted accordingly and the guide's days will not be cancelled.

BUDGET AND CURRENCY

Italy is in the Eurozone, so the currency is the Euro (€).

The shelter has a credit card terminal, however, we strongly advise you to bring cash !

Be aware of the usual bank charges when purchasing goods or services with your credit card.

CHANGE OF PROGRAMME: feasibility of the climb and decision by the Mountain Guide

The test/technical training day on the first day will allow the Mountain Guide to assess your technical skills and determine whether you are physically and technically ready to climb the Matterhorn. If the mountain guide considers that your abilities do not correspond to the level required for the ascent of the Matterhorn, he may decide not to undertake it: in this case, he will offer you an alternative ascent for which the price will be adapted.

If an attempt is made to climb the Matterhorn, a certain timetable must be adhered to throughout the ascent in order to reach the summit and return to the hut and cable car in good time. If the timing established by the mountain guide is not adhered to, due to progress being too slow, the guide may decide to interrupt the ascent and turn back. In this case, Esprit Montagne will not be entitled to any refund.

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT HIRE

If you need to hire technical equipment (crampons, harness and ice axe), please let us know in advance.

ADVICE ON HURING MOUNTAINNERING BOOTS :

About mountaineering boots, here's what you need: Scarpa Triolet GTX

You can rent them from Ermano Sport, le Pilier du sport in Morgex (AO), Gal Sport in Aosta or Ravanel or Snell in Chamonix.

BOOKING

To confirm your booking, you need to :

Set the dates
Fill in our registration form
Pay a deposit of 35% (payment can be made by credit card, no additional charges).
The balance is due 60 days before the start of the course.

Budget for a 3-day ascent of the Matterhorn

THE PRICE INCLUDES

. Supervision by an experienced mountain guide from our team (one guide = one client) ;

. Use of group equipment (ropes, pitons, carabiners) ;

. Half-board at the Hornlihuette hut for you and the guide on day 2 ;

. Cable car tickets from Zermatt to Schwarzsee station (return) on D2 and D3.

THE PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE

. Personal technical equipment: crampons, harness and ice axe (if you need to hire, please let us know) ;

. accommodation between the first and second day, which the customer organises independently ;

. Lunches, drinks and personal expenses ;

. Transfer from Aosta to Zermatt (if the guide can carpool with you, there is no extra charge, otherwise there is a supplement of €70) ;

. Everything not explicitly mentioned in the ‘Price includes’ section.

Photo gallery

Any question?

Climbing the Matterhorn?

To climb the Matterhorn, it is advisable to have solid mountaineering experience, and to be physically and mentally prepared. At the same time, it's important to be accompanied when choosing a route to climb that's suited to your skill level, and to familiarise yourself with the techniques of rock climbing, progressing on snow and ice, and safety manoeuvres. Appropriate equipment, including mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, helmet and clothing suited to the weather conditions, is also essential. Planning the itinerary, dates according to weather conditions, permits and accommodation are all important logistical aspects. Once you're there, follow the itinerary carefully, taking into account the guide's instructions or any other information available, and ensuring safety at every stage. The descent, which is often more difficult than the ascent, also requires special attention. Finally, it's important to celebrate the success of the climb in complete safety, remembering the challenges met and the memories created.

Who climbed the Matterhorn?

The Matterhorn was first climbed on 14 July 1865 by a team led by British mountaineer Edward Whymper. The expedition reached the summit via the Hörnli ridge, a route on the Swiss side of the mountain. However, this first ascent was marked by tragedy; four members of the team perished during the descent. Since then, many renowned mountaineers from all over the world have successfully climbed the Matterhorn, making this iconic mountain one of the most famous and coveted in the world of mountaineering.

What level of ability is required to climb the Matterhorn?

Climbing the Matterhorn is considered extremely difficult and demanding due to its steep topography, changing weather conditions and the risks associated with high-altitude climbing. Climbing this peak requires solid mountaineering experience, as well as advanced technical skills such as rock climbing, progression on snow and ice, and mastery of safety manoeuvres. Climbers and mountaineers who plan to climb the Matterhorn generally need to be in excellent physical and mental condition and be able to make quick and safe decisions in emergency situations. Because of its difficulty, climbing the Matterhorn is reserved for experienced climbers, accompanied by professional guides or people with in-depth knowledge of the mountain and the associated risks.

The Matterhorn: 3-day ascent Between Valais and Val d'Aosta