Ascent to Pointe Dufour (4,634 m )
Mont Rose massif

Monte Rosa Massif

Climb to Pointe Dufour

Participants :

At 4,634 metres, Pointe Dufour is the highest peak in Switzerland and the entire German-speaking region. Located in the Valais Alps, it is part of the Mont Rose massif. This long and demanding route represents a real challenge for mountaineers. The climb requires meticulous preparation, excellent physical condition and advanced technical mountaineering skills. The changing weather conditions and difficult terrain add to the complexity of this climb.

Dates & Prices

Dates available on request. Contact us at info@espritmontagne.com.

Journey

Ascent of Pointe Dufour - Mont Rose via the normal Swiss route

The second highest peak in the Alps was renamed in 1863 by the Swiss Federal Council in honour of Swiss general and cartographer Guillaume-Henri Dufour (1787-1875). Dufour is famous for having edited the first series of accurate maps of Switzerland, known as the Dufour map, which has become a benchmark in the field of cartography. In recognition of his outstanding contributions, the summit was named Pointe Dufour in his honour, perpetuating his legacy and contribution to the cartography and geographical recognition of Switzerland.

Program

Program of the 3-day ascent of Pointe Dufour or Dufourspitze

DAY 1
Zermatt - Monterosa Hut

Elevation gain/loss: + 600 m / - 500 m
Duration: between 3 and 4 hours

The meeting point with the guide is the Gornergrat train station in Zermatt. We'll take the cogwheel train up to Rotenboden station (2,815 metres). The view from here is breathtaking, not only of the Monte Rosa massif, but also of the majestic Matterhorn. We'll start on the path that takes us over the Gorner glacier (Gornersee), where we'll already need crampons. After a sustained climb, during which the refuge alternately appears and disappears, we'll discover the Monterosa Hutte, where we'll be spending the next two nights.

DAY 2
Monterosa Hut - Pointe Dufour

Elevation gain/loss: + 1800 m / - 1800 m
Duration: between 11 and 12 hours

With the altitude, we don't know how good the sleep will be, but it's certain that the night will be short. We wake up early in the night to start the ascent, which will take all day.

We start by crossing a section of granite rock to reach the glacier front of Monte Rosagletscher. Once daylight arrives, we'll change scenery and move onto the rocky ridge that leads to the summit. To reach the summit, you'll need to successfully complete this section, which corresponds to mixed climbing with pitches III and IV.

The joy of reaching the summit can't make us forget that we still have to retrace the route back to the refuge, where we'll spend a second night to recover our strength and enjoy this magical place.

DAY 3
Monterosa Hut - Zermatt

Elevation gain/loss: + 500 m / - 600 m
Duration: between 3 and 4 hours

The third day of this trip is dedicated to the descent to Zermatt, where we will arrive by taking the Gornergrat train from Rotenboden station (2,815 metres). We may feel a little tired as we climb back up the slope to the train station, but the joy and unique beauty of these landscapes will give us the motivation to keep going. Once the train has reached its destination, the group will be dispersed in Zermatt.

Equipment

Equipment for the ascent of Pointe Dufour or Dufourspitze :

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT

high-quality, cramponable Goretex mountaineering boots
crampons and ice axe
harness
40-litre rucksack
walking poles
mountaineering helmet.

HOW TO DRESS for a 4000-metre ascent

First layer on the skin - underwear:

thermal and breathable t-shirt (merino recommended)
thermal and breathable tights (merino recommended)
warm socks.

Second layer:

warm, breathable technical fleece;
windproof and waterproof mountaineering trousers

Third layer:

thin but warm down jacket

Last layer:

quality goretex jacket or similar, waterproof and windproof

Do not forget:

sleeping sheet
warm winter hat
choker
warm winter gloves
headlamp
sun cream
sunglasses
camera

If you have any doubts or simply need clarification on what equipment to take for your climb, you can take a look at our Blog page ‘What equipment for mountaineering?’

IMPORTANT: if a person is not properly equipped and dressed, the mountain guide may decide not to allow him/her to take part in the climb. We ask you to read carefully the list of equipment detailed in the PDF program of the tour and to call us if you have any doubts.

Level

Physical level 5/5

TOP-LEVEL SPORTSMAN :

You are experienced in the sporting activity of the purchased trip.

Effort corresponding to 1,700 - 2,500 metres of elevation gain/loss per day, you are obliged to do 12-hour days.

You are a highly trained sportsman and you are currently in good shape.

Technical level 5/5

EXPERT MOUNTAINEERING :

You have a high level of proficiency in mountain climbing, progression and rescue techniques. You're comfortable with aerial passages on ridges. You've already done a 4000m climb and it went very well.

Description of the level required :

To make this ascent you may need to be very well trained physically, have the strengh to climb for more than 12 hours at altitude and be well acclimatised before the start of the trip.

In addition, each participant may have good experience of mixed glacial terrain and have no problems with III-IV degrees.

A list of climbs completed by the participants will be requested before this ascent can be booked.

Useful information

Appointment on the first day

Meet the guide in Zermatt on DAY 1.

End of the climb

The group leaves Zermatt in the afternoon of the third day between 14:00 and 16:00.

Insurance

Cancellation and repatriation insurance is compulsory, as is mountain search and rescue insurance (minimum cover of 10,000 Euros).

Esprit Montagne offers the following insurance: https://www.assurance-multi-sports.com.

Organisation

The week before your departure, you will receive a reminder by email with all the information concerning the meeting point and the guide in charge of your group. Esprit Montagne / Esprit des Guides SA will take care of booking the hut, so you don't have to worry about it.

Guidance

French ans English-speaking UIAGM mountain guide in our team.

How to reach Aosta Valley

Via Chamonix Mont Blanc – you can reach Chamonix by train from the main French airports or from Geneva airport – then you can reach Courmayeur – Aosta Valley through the Mont Blanc Tunnel (there are buses connections from Chamonix to Aosta Valley, but if you would like to be free to move it is advisable to rent a car).
Via Geneva or Martigny – you can easily reach Martigny by train from Geneva airport - then you reach Aosta city center via the tunnel of Grand Saint Bernard (there are buses connections from Martigny to Aosta Valley, but if you would like to be free to move it is advisable to rent a car).
Via Milan/Turin airport – rent a car directly to reach Aosta via the highway
- Rent a car directly to reach Aosta via the motorway;
- By train: https://www.trenitalia.com/trenitalia-france.html
Or via Bourg Saint Maurice (73700, France) - Col du Petit Saint Bernard - you can reach Bourg Saint Maurice by train from the main French airports. Once in Bourg Saint Maurice you will need to rent a car to reach the Aosta Valley via the Col du Petit Saint Bernard (2 hours drive). It's a slightly longer trip but you can save the toll at the Mont Blanc Tunnel.

Public transports Aosta Valley

Bus trasport from Chamonix to Courmayeur: https://aosta.arriva.it/line/courmayeur-chamonix/
Bus trasport from Courmayeur to Aosta : https://aosta.arriva.it/en/line/aosta-courmayeur-2/
Bus transport from Milan to Aosta: https://aosta.arriva.it/en/aosta-milano/
Bus transport whithin the Aosta Region: https://aosta.arriva.it/en/timetables-and-routes/

POOR WEATHER CONDITIONS or POOR MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS

If the mountain or weather conditions do not allow the ascent to be made as planned, an alternative program of ascent will be proposed wherever possible, the price will be adjusted accordingly and the guide's days will not be cancelled.

MODIFICATION OF THE PROGRAM : feasibility of the ascent and decision of the Mountain Guide

We'll check your level on the basis of a list of routes, which will enable us to assess your experience and level in mountaineering. If these don't seem sufficient, we'll suggest that you do one or two preparatory courses.

If the ascent of Pointe Dufour is attempted, a certain timetable in the progression has to be respected in order to reach the summit and return to the hut and cable car in time. If the timing established by the mountain guide is not adhered to, due to progress being too slow, the guide may decide to interrupt the ascent and turn back. In this case, Esprit Montagne will not be entitled to any refund.

Rental of technical equipment

If you need to hire technical equipment (crampons, harness and ice axe), let us know in advance: it is possible to arrange hire with your guide.

Advice for hiring mountaineering boots:

Regarding mountaineering boots, here is the type of boots you should have: Scarpa Triolet GTX
You can rent them at Gal Sport in Aosta, at the Pilier du Sport in Morgex (AO) or at Ravanel or Snell in Chamonix.

Budget and currency

Italy is in the Eurozone, so the currency is the Euro (€).
The shelter has a credit card terminal, however, we strongly advise you to bring cash!
Be aware of the usual bank charges when purchasing goods or services with your credit card.