Monte Rosa Massif
Mountaineering course Crossing and half-crossing of the Breithorn
Technical lev. : / 5
CONFIRMED MOUNTAINEERING:
You have experience in mountaineering and have already climbed at altitude. You are autonomous and master the activity, you can manage a rope on an easy route in the high mountains.
Physical lev. : / 5
SPORTY & TRAINED PEOPLE:
Effort corresponding to approximately 1200 - 1700m of ascent per day.
You like and practice endurance sports at a good level.
The Breithorn Traverse and Half Traverse is a mixed technical climb, with aerial and vertical passages on snow and rocky ridges, which requires a good crampon technique, a head for heights and a good physical condition to be able to fully concentrate on the most technical passages.
Dates & Prices
Discount if booked 4 months before departure
Dates available on request. Contact us at info@espritmontagne.com.
Price for the Full Traverse of the Breithorn:
Trip
Discover the ultimate alpine adventure with the Breithorn traverse, a spectacular route that connects the Western Breithorn to the Central Breithorn. Ideal for passionate mountaineers, this traverse offers you breathtaking panoramas and a moderate but exciting challenge on icy ridges. If you prefer a shorter experience, opt for the half traverse of the Breithorn, which allows you to reach the summit of the Central Breithorn while enjoying the majestic landscapes of the Alps. An unforgettable, accessible and thrilling experience, perfect for mountain lovers!
Program
Duration: 40 minutes from Testa Grigia to the refuge
Elevation gain: - 360 m
Departure in the afternoon from Breuil Cervinia and ascent by cable car to Testa Grigia (3,480 m). From there, descent on foot to the Teodulo refuge.
Dinner and night at the refuge.
Duration: 8 to 10 hours
Elevation gain: +1050 m / -700 m
After an early breakfast, you will set off to cross the glacier and the summer ski slopes to reach the Plateau Rosa / Klein Matterhorn at an altitude of about 3500 metres. From there, you will cross the glacier under the Breithorn ridges and a long traverse at the foot of these will take you to the foot of the Roccia Nera. You will then climb up to Roccia Nera (4075 m) and begin your rocky and aerial traverse, passing by the Breithorn Oriental (4141 m), Central (4160 m) and Occidental (4165 m). Descent via the classic ascent route and return to Breuil-Cervinia by cable car.
Duration: 40 minutes from Testa Grigia to the refuge
Elevation gain: - 200m
In the afternoon, departure from Breuil Cervinia and ascent to Testa Grigia (3480 m) by cable car. From there, you will descend on foot to the Teodulo refuge.
Dinner and overnight stay at the refuge.
Duration: 6 to 8 hours
Elevation gain: +1050 m; -1050 m
You will cross the glacier heading towards the bottom of the eastern Breithorn, climb to the summit at 4141 metres and then cross over the snowy and rocky ridge from the central Breithorn (4160 metres) to the western Breithorn (4165 metres). Descent via the normal route of the Breithorn and last part on the summer ski slopes to reach the Teodulo refuge
Materiel
First layer on the skin - underwear:
Second layer:
Third layer:
Final layer:
Don't forget:
If you have any doubts or simply need more information about the equipment you should take with you for your climb, you can take a look at our blog page ‘What equipment do I need for mountaineering?’
IMPORTANT: if a person is not properly equipped and dressed, the mountain guide may decide not to allow them to take part in the climb. We ask you to carefully read the equipment list provided in the PDF programme and to call us if in doubt.
Level
SPORTY & TRAINED PEOPLE:
Effort corresponding to approximately 1200 - 1700m of ascent per day.
You like and practice endurance sports at a good level.
CONFIRMED MOUNTAINEERING:
You have experience in mountaineering and have already climbed at altitude. You are autonomous and master the activity, you can manage a rope on an easy route in the high mountains.
Useful info
Meet on DAY 1 with the guide at the ticket office of the Cervinia cable car at 14:00.
Disbandment of the group on the second day in the afternoon between 15:00 and 16:00 in Cervinia.
If the mountain or weather conditions prevent the ascent from taking place as planned, an alternative programme will be offered wherever possible, the price will be adjusted accordingly and the guide days will not be cancelled.
Cancellation and repatriation insurance is compulsory, as is insurance covering mountain search and rescue (minimum guarantee of 10,000 Euros).
Here is the insurance that Esprit Montagne offers: https://www.assurance-multi-sports.com.
French-speaking IFMGA mountain guide from our team.
When you register online, you can choose whether or not to participate in carpooling to get to the starting point of your course. After making your reservation, by logging back into your personal Esprit Montagne account, a section dedicated to carpooling will be available. You will find the contacts of the participants in your course who are interested in carpooling, allowing you to get in touch with them directly.
. Guidance from our IFMGA mountain guide and his expenses for accommodation and meals
. The Cervinia - Plateau Rosa AR cable car
. Half-board at the refuge (dinner and breakfast)
. Equipment for the group (ropes, lanyards, carabiners).
. Personal technical equipment: crampons, helmet, ice axe and harness.
. Lunches, drinks and snacks so that you can eat as you wish at the refuge.
. Anything not mentioned under ‘The price includes’
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The Breithorn Traverse is a unique experience for experienced mountaineers, offering a spectacular route that connects the Western Breithorn to the Central Breithorn. This traverse requires not only good physical condition but also a mastery of mountain techniques, including the use of crampons and ice axes. The moderately difficult but demanding route takes you along icy ridges and offers breathtaking views of the surrounding Alpine peaks, including Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn. The ascent of the Western Breithorn is often a first step for those who want to test their endurance before embarking on more technical climbs.
The half traverse of the Breithorn, on the other hand, is a shorter but equally impressive variant. It allows mountaineers to reach the summit of the Central Breithorn without embarking on the entire traverse. This route, which is shorter but still demanding, is an excellent way to discover the beauty and difficulty of the Alps' glaciers while offering a technical challenge. Although more accessible than the full crossing, the half crossing of the Breithorn also requires mountain experience and a good understanding of snow and ice conditions, especially in relation to the variations in weather at altitude.
In Cervinia, there is a variety of mountaineering courses to suit all levels, offering an excellent opportunity to explore the mountains while learning essential techniques. For beginners, introductory courses allow you to familiarise yourself with the basics of mountaineering, such as the use of equipment, glacier progression techniques, and mountain safety principles. These courses often include easier climbs, such as the Breithorn, perfect for a first experience at high altitude. Supervised by experienced mountain guides, this type of course guarantees you a complete learning experience in a spectacular setting.
For more advanced mountaineers, more technical courses are also offered, including ascents of more demanding peaks such as the Matterhorn or Monte Rosa. These courses are ideal for those who wish to perfect their skills, particularly in ice climbing, management of extreme conditions, and progression in alpine terrain. Courses often include emergency simulations, as well as advanced rock climbing and glacier management techniques. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced mountaineer, mountaineering courses in Cervinia offer a rewarding experience and ideal conditions for progressing in an exceptional mountain environment.
